Many people rave about The Oil Cleansing Method and how great it worked out for them, but this technique takes a lot of trial and error to master which is a risky game you will be playing. Everyone has different results as the results may vary. Today, I share why you should NOT try oil cleansing. So let’s jump right in.

Reasons for why you shouldn’t bother with oil cleansing:

• While there are some who swear by the oil cleansing method, there are just as many who started this skin care method and figured out after long that it caused their skin to be worst than when started. Whiteheads were the result for many and some ladies found that they had more acne breakouts than what they started with.

• While some have found some success with the oil cleansing method, it took trial after trial to find the “right” (and it’s still trial and error) combination and types of oil. Why go through all of this when there are plenty of all natural or mostly natural oily skin products that WORK well at absorbing the excess oils that cause acne?

• If you don’t do the oil cleansing method correctly (and remember it’s trial and error), you can cause a case of adult acne to develop – especially if you have sensitive skin.

• Most OCM users suggest using a washcloth on your face. Washcloths carry so many germs, unless you are using a new clean washcloth daily. Bacteria thrive in moist environments such as a wet washcloth. Keep in mind that washing your face with a washcloth that hasn’t been cleaned could spread the bacteria on your skin or even an infection.

• While natural oils are used to “absorb” excess oils, what about cleansing dirt and debris from your skin? You can’t possibly clean your skin with oil. You need to WASH it with a cleanser for your skin type.

• This method can be very time consuming and not guaranteed.

• There will be a “purging stage” that may last up to 2 weeks or more, where the OCM is clearing all your toxins from the inside. (Many freak out about this)

• Lastly, many estheticians don’t recommend this method for a good reason. The constituency of natural oils is very thick and CAN clog pores causing milia (small, kind of hard and white pimples). Natural oils in skin care products have been emulsified to make them a lighter texture for all skin types.
Based on my own experience I really wanted this to work. I was extremely skeptical about using this method at first (because I have very oily-acne prone skin), but after doing some extensive research I was informed that you can indeed clean your face with oil. I began with almond oil, then experimented with mixtures such as castor oil, grapeseed oil along with the almond oil in the recommended usage parts. The first few weeks it left my skin feeling amazing, dewy and moisturized, but then came along the “purge”. I was informed the purge will last approximately two weeks, unfortunately my purge lasted two months. I knew something was not right when I had a rash-like trail of small bumps near my chin.

Purging stages:

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Then it got even worse! I developed cystic acne all over my chin and forehead.

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and worse!

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I decided to take a trip to the dermatologist and he prescribed me with Aczone (treatment) and Tretinoin ( a form of retina to speed up the cell turnover). It took about 4 months for my face to finally clear up. This was definitely an experience for me and also keep in mind that the results are different for everyone.

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Many naturals may complain about how dry and dull their hair is. The one thing you need to know about natural hair is that the kinkier (tightly coiled) it is, the drier it will be in many cases.
When your hair has more kinks, it’s harder for your scalp’s natural oils to travel down your strands. However, with proper TLC you can still bring out your strand’s natural sheen and revitalize your tresses.

Buy Water-Based Moisturizers
Unless the first or second ingredient is water, it’s not a true moisturizer. Don’t be fooled by products that claim to moisturize your hair, but don’t even have water (or it’s listed as one of the last ingredients.)

Here are some good moisturizers for natural hair:

1) Jane Carter Nourish and Shine (Even though this is mostly oils and butters, it moisturizes well when applied to damp hair):
• Helps reduce dryness on the scalp and skin
• All natural nourish and shine
• Made from all natural ingredients

2) Shea Moisture Products:
• Coconut oil: Hydrates and protects while reducing frizz
• Silk protein: Smooths hair for a soft, silky feel
• Neem oil: Controls frizz while adding brilliant shine
• For thick, curly hair

3) Jamaican Black Castor Oil:
• Promotes Hair Growth
• Promotes Health Hair
• Great Moisturizer

4) Qhemet Biologics Amla and Olive Heavy Cream:
• Nourishingly rich blend of old world oils, organic herbs and natural humectants leaves coarse, dry and brittle hair extra soft, healthy and supple
• Contains Amla, Brahmi and African Aloe, premium Afro-Indian botanicals used for thousands of years to nourish the scalp and strengthen and condition hair. MSM sulfur nurtures follicles and encourages healthy hair growth, Mediterranean Olive Oil delivers emollience and lubricity while Vegetable Glycerin and pure African Castor Oil lends sheen, softness and intense moisture.
• Does not contain mineral oil, lanolin, proteins, silicones, artificial fragrances, dyes or parabens.
• 100% Vegetarian

5) Oyin Hair Dew:
• This creamy, conditioning leave-in is light enough for every day. It’s great on ‘naked’ hair immediately after a cleanse, or as a way to reinvigorate tired hair all the way through your hair care cycle.

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What is Hair Porosity?
Hair porosity is simply your hair’s ability to absorb water and maintain moisture. It is affected by the flexible outer hair layer called the cuticle, which determines how easily moisture and oils pass in and out of your hair. For most, porosity is genetic, but it can also be affected by external factors such as exposure, heat treatments and chemical processing. Knowing your hair’s porosity can help you choose the right products to keep your hair well-moisturized, supple, strong and shiny.

Determining you hair’s porosity is pretty easy, it is often referred to as the Float Test. Simply take a few strands, I recommend using freshly washed, clean hair so grab a few the next time you wash, and then place them in a glass/bowl of water. If the strand/strands sink to the bottom then you have high porosity hair. If the strand/strands float then you have low porosity hair. Knowing your hair’s porosity is important, especially if you struggle with maintaining moisture because it can at as another tool in helping to determine what products work best for you hair. So let’s break down the different porosity levels.

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DETERMINING HAIR POROSITY
There are two methods you can use to find out how porous your hair is:
• The Float Test: Take a couple of strands of hair from your comb or brush and drop them into a bowl of water. Let them sit for 2-4 minutes. If your hair floats, you have low porosity. If it sinks, you have high porosity.
• The Slip’n’Slide Test: Take a strand of hair and slide your fingers up the shaft (toward the scalp). If you feel little bumps along the way, this means that your cuticle is lifted and that you have high porosity. If your fingers slip smoothly, then you have low porosity hair.

LOW POROSITY
• Hair with low porosity has a tightly bound cuticle layer with overlapping scales that lay flat. This type of hair is usually considered healthy, and is often very shiny, especially when it’s dark in color. Low porosity hair repels moisture when you try to wet it and is hard to process since it resists penetration of chemicals.
• Low porosity hair is also prone to build-up from protein-rich deep conditioning products, which can leave it feeling stiff and straw-like. Stick to protein-free, daily conditioners with humectants such as glycerin or honey. Use moderate heat with protein-free deep conditioning treatments to help open up the tightly bound cuticle.
• Low porosity hair requires moisturizers rich in emollients such as shea butter, jojoba oil, coconut oil and mineral oil. It also benefits from humectant products, which attract and hold moisture to your hair. Choose lighter, liquid-based products such as hair milks that won’t sit on your hair and leave it oily or greasy.

MEDIUM POROSITY
• Hair with medium porosity often requires the least amount of maintenance. The cuticle layer is looser, allowing just the right amount of moisture to enter while preventing too much from escaping. Hair with normal porosity tends to hold styles well, and can be permed and colored with predictable results. Over time, however, these processes can damage your hair and increase its porosity.
• Occasional deep conditioning treatments with protein conditioners can benefit medium porosity hair, but proteins should not be included in your daily regimen.

HIGH POROSITY
• High porosity can be either an inherent property of hair or the result of damage from chemical processing, rough treatment or environmental damage. High porosity hair has gaps and holes in the cuticle, which let too much moisture into your hair and leave it prone to frizz and tangling in humid weather. Even simple acts such as bathing, swimming and shampooing can create more damage and breakage due to the sheer amount of moisture highly porous hair can absorb.
• Be sure to use anti-humectants in climates with high heat and humidity. This will help seal your damaged cuticles and prevent them from absorbing excess moisture in the air.
• Because highly porous hair can also lose moisture easily, it’s important to use leave-in conditioners, moisturizers and sealers. Layering these products will help your hair hold on to the moisture you’re giving it. You can even follow up with a heavy hair butter to help fill the gaps in your damaged cuticles and further protect your hair from losing too much moisture.

What is your hair’s porosity and how are you treating it?

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Genetics
Genetics play a huge role in hair growth. Everyone is always searching for that miracle product that will give them the long tresses, but the truth is hair growth is largely determined by genetics. Start by taking a look at the women in your family and see if you notice any kind of length pattern. Some people simply have genes that help their hair grow faster and longer than others. Do not get discouraged; genetics aren’t the end of the road. It is just something to keep in mind when you are comparing your hair to someone else’s.

Hair Growth Products
Many products have very little impact on hair growth. In addition to that, everyone has an optimal growth rate, which can be inhibited by things like diet, stress, etc. and promoted by vitamins, exercise, and eating healthy. However, there are very few products that will make your hair grow faster than your optimal rate — which varies from person to person. For example, Castor oil is known to have a positive effect on thinning hair, hair growth and is also used to thicken eyebrows and other variable natural oils.
• The key is taking extra time to ensure your hair is properly moisturized and wearing a lot more protective or low-manipulation styles (rod sets, straw sets, etc.).
• Hair that retains moisture, has more elasticity, breaks less and retains more length. Dry hair is more brittle, breaks off easily and prevents you from retaining length.
• Eating more fruits and vegetables, drinking adequate water, taking vitamins and exercising regularly have all been known to support hair growth no matter your ethnicity, genes, etc.
• Eating a lot of saturated fats and sugars can also prevent your hair from growing at its optimal rate.

Protective Styles
Protective styling does not help your hair grow any faster, but it helps you retain more length because you are not constantly manipulating your hair. The ends of your hair are the most fragile because they are the oldest part. So after all the combing, detangling, blow drying, and flat ironing, it is very easy for your ends to become damaged and if you don’t get your ends trimmed regularly, they will break off. So in order to keep your ends healthy, you have to continue to trim. The average person’s hair grows 1/2 inch per month, so if you are losing that amount or more due to breakage then it will appear as if your hair is not growing.
• Protective styles like braids, twists, up dos or any style that tucks away your ends and doesn’t require manipulation can help you retain more length.
• Natural hair is prone to snagging on clothing (especially wool), which can cause breakage and split ends, so keep that in mind during those cold months.
• Remember that just because your hair is in a protective style (yes, extensions count too), don’t neglect to moisturize it. Because when you take it down, you will have a lot more breakage due to the fact your hair has dried out.

Scalp Massages

Massaging your scalp for 20-30 minutes per day is a great habit to get into. It increases blood flow to the scalp area and can stimulate growth. This may be especially helpful if you have thinning edges from relaxers or weaves. If your hair is not permanently damaged, this could help your hair grow back. If you cannot sit and do the scalp massage all at once, do it several times per day in smaller intervals.

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The Green House Effect Method is a natural and effective means of boosting hair growth due to the fact that it allows the hair to retain moisture more efficiently. The steam effect created penetrates into the scalp to increase average growth rate. The method involves covering your hair with a plastic cap after moisturizing and sealing in order to create a ‘steam’ effect on your scalp overnight.

How It Works:

The belief is that if you use the Greenhouse Effect, your scalp will thrive because it is moist. If you have a healthy and happy scalp, your hair will grow as well. They say that it can double and even triple your hair growth. You could also give yourself a quick scalp massage before covering your hair for the night to enhance the growth effect.

How To Do The Greenhouse Effect (Baggying Method):
• Use a spray bottle and spray your hair with water until very slightly damp.
• Apply oil to your hair (avoid getting too much oil on the scalp to prevent clogged pores).
• You can put your hair in a bun, ponytail, braids, twists or any other style.
• Cover your hair with either a plastic cap if you can find one big enough or a plastic grocery bag will work pretty well too.
• Cover the plastic bag with your scarf or bonnet making sure that everything is secure for the night.
• You can use this method anytime from one – five times a week, it is all about maintaining a healthy balance and finding out what works for you. Also,please note that you do not need to wash your hair after using this method.
• In the morning allow up to 20 minutes for your hair to dry or else use a blow dryer on a cool setting to get rid of the excess moisture.

Some benefits of using the GHE:
• Hair growth
• Naturally softens the hair
• Helps combat dryness
• Moisturized hair has more definition
• Easier to seal in the moisture.

For Best Results:
Doing the GHE method often for two to three months at a time will get you great results, you can choose how many days a week you want to embark on this challenge and do it. At least 3 to 4 days a week. You can alternate between scalp massages, which help improve blood flow in your scalp and also helps generate hair growth as well. You can also do a length check (take a photo) before you begin and choose to do one bi-weekly or monthly when it comes to this challenge. See if it is working for you and if it is helping your hair grow.

Have you tried the Greenhouse Method?